NAPA & SONOMA
Sip and sightsee in the rolling hills of California wine country.
Some general tips for planning a wine country visit—
I often try to book my stays and winery visits in a north-bound fashion up the valley, to minimize the amount of doubling back. It’s certainly possible to visit both valleys in one trip– and the drive sure is beautiful– but I find you get the most out of it if you stick to one region. Regardless, be sure to plan locations strategically and know travel times in advance, so you know what you’re getting into.
And as always, do yourself a favor and coordinate a sober driver, a car service, or an Uber situation when stacking vineyard visits!
Napa
Reservations on the Napa side are almost universally a requirement for visiting wineries, and certainly hotel stays. Plan your tastings well in advance, along with your lodging. Hotels here trend towards the upscale, as can the prices. But hidden gems still abound, like Harvest Inn– a hotel straight out of a fairytale, with stone cottages, thatched roofs and rose gardens.
Visiting during the the valley’s low season (typically winter months from December to February) can be a great way to enjoy the region without the crowds.
Whenever you go, load up with snacks at the iconic Oakville Grocer, grab dinner at Bouchon for a taste of Thomas Keller’s world-renowned French cuisine, and revel in the landscape that put California on the global wine stage.
Sonoma
The casual cousin to more developed Napa, Sonoma is less commercialized and more laid back. Every town has its own feel, and a community of farmers, winemakers and food enthusiasts that bring each to life. The windy roads offer beautiful views as you make your way through the valley and its vineyards.
Sonoma- The namesake of the valley, driving into "downtown" Sonoma feels like stumbling upon a quiet Western town after taking a wrong turn off the highway. The darling town square was built in 1835, and today small boutiques, wine shops and restaurants dot its perimeter. Don’t miss Tasca Tasca for tapas!
Healdsburg- Quickly growing in both popularity and development, Healdsburg hits the perfect spot between quaint and upscale. Boutique hotels dot the landscape without overwhelming the historic charm, and the town square offers plenty of shopping, restaurants and wine tasting rooms that are a breeze to pop into.
Calistoga- Laid-back Calistoga offers a glimpse into the early days of California’s wine renaissance. Quirky small producers and iconic brands alike are nestled near this bohemian town.
Forestville- A rural town on the Russian River, Forestville has become an outpost for some fearless winemakers working with adventurous blends. This growing town has plenty to eat in between tastings, like Sonoma Pizza Co.’s perfectly fluffy pies, topped with the best of the region’s produce.
Guerneville- On the furthest edge of the valley, nestled against the Russian River and a tucked a mere half hour away from the Sonoma coast, Guerneville is a postage-stamp sized town with plenty of personality. Main Street has a charming blend of modern and vintage Americana restaurants and shops, and proudly LGBTQ+-owned businesses fly their flags in what has long been a celebrated queer-friendly destination (often hailed as the Fire Island of Northern California). Hungry? Guerneville Taco Truck will have you fed in no time.
STAY
STAY
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Kenwood Inn
A tucked away villa for the full five star treatment, near Glen Ellen.
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MacArthur Place
Adult summer camp in Sonoma.
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Dawn Ranch
A sleepy riverside spa stay in historic Guerneville.
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NewTree Ranch
A farm to table stay, tucked away near Healdsburg.
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The Lodge at Sonoma
Location, location, location– and a pool!
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Harvest Inn
A Napa stay straight out of a fairytale, with stone cottages, thatched roofs and rose gardens.
SIP
SIP
A selection of snaps from my favorite places to sip.
Book the mountaintop wine tasting at Kunde for insane views: 1,850 acres of beautiful, rolling vineyards.
A remarkable example of modern architecture blending with the ancient hills of Napa Valley, Cuvaison is a feast for all the senses.
Flowers Vineyards & Winery captivates with its coastal influence, crafting wines that mirror Sonoma's unique terroir.
Wine tastings in the Bartholomew Estates succulent garden overlook the vineyard, where you’ll learn all about the rich history of the 375-acre estate– a birthplace of California viticulture, which now functions as a non-profit steward of the land. You can hike and picnic on the grounds, free and open to the public.
On a sunny patio, with records playing softly in the background, Red Car Wine’s beloved rosé made for the perfect casual tasting experience. Wine enthusiasts in the know reach for their lesser-known chardonnays, which are quickly emerging as some of the best in the region.
Orin Swift's alleyway-turned tasting room is one of Napa Valley’s best hidden gems. Fans of Orin Swift wine might be familiar with the beautiful photography hanging at the entrance, which graces the bottle of the 2017 Papillon Bordeaux blend. Besides serving top-notch wines, the downtown St. Helena tasting room has a sleek look, too.
Open to wine club members only, Scribe's oasis in the middle of Sonoma feels like a scene straight out of Casablanca.
Napa's Ashes & Diamonds Winery is an area staple with its now-iconic mid-century building with portholes and zig-zag roof. The food and wines are lovely and the fresh baked bread is worth writing home about. Don’t forget to snap a photo in front of the iconic yellow door.
Joseph Swan Vineyard is a master of Pinot Noir, thanks to rich terroir and lingering fog.
One of my favorite examples of wine country architecture done right, MacRostie blends in seamlessly and beautifully with its surroundings. From the soaring ceilings to the sweeping sunlight, it feels like a natural extension of the Healdsburg winery grounds; an easy place to sip and stay all day.
Three Fat Guys winery is the definition of a hidden gem. You'll find their tasting room on the side of the road, with a surprise wildflower field in the back.
Tank Garage Winery set up shop in an old former gas station in the valley, and still has the old service station signage and sliding garage doors to let the sunshine in. The bottle design is fresh and contemporary — they make for fun gifts and conversation starters.
Beringer Winery's land is treated with the utmost respect: their wine is biodynamic, a step above organic. We got a tour from Jill, the daughter of one of the founders, who grew up on the vineyard. The flowers, trees, and vines themselves are planted with sustainability in mind. The ecosystem is self-governing, meaning minimal energy waste and maximum flavor. You can taste the difference.
Visit Ryme for a different type of experience nestled inside an unassuming barn behind a dirt parking lot. The tasting room was light and airy, with natural decor matching unique blends from rare, old-world grapes.